“I was looking at the male uniform of a suit, shirt and tie, with starched collar and cuffs. I experimented a lot with proportion,” Creative Director Louise Trotter told Sarah Harris of British Vogue. “I played with the armhole, which is pivoted forward, and also permanently creased the sleeves of blazers so you get the same feeling as with a crease-front trouser. It was about reappropriating details that you’d typically find in tailoring, but putting then in unexpected places.”
If masculinity is seen through amplified proportions and a reworking of classic techniques. Then, the feminine can be felt in the fabrics and gestures. How a generous pocket encourages slouch, or the impact of a vintage Italian jacquard in the manner of a Renaissance tapestry. How a garment makes you feel and move and think.
“I love the way men’s clothes feel – they hang differently from the shoulder," Louise adds. "I’ve always thought there’s something so alluring about a woman in men’s clothes.”